5 Steps to Super Soft, Healthy Hair

I'm a foodie at heart, so the best way I could think to describe the process is like this...

It's like a coconut oil sandwich stuffed with a protein conditioner and a moisturizing deep conditioner.

Yes, I'm serious!! 

I've done this twice. The first time I bet it all on science and hoped for the best. But after getting the same awesome results a second time, I just had to share!! My entire method is a bit time-consuming so I've broken it down into five easy steps for achieving uber soft, moisturized, healthy hair:

Step 1: Start with a coconut oil pre-poo under a plastic cap for 1-2 hours (or under the dryer for 15-30 minutes).

Step 2: After shampooing, apply ApHogee Keratin 2-Minute Reconstructor (this is a light protein conditioner).

Step 3: Top the ApHogee conditioner with a deep (moisturizing) conditioner. Cover with a plastic cap for 1-2 hours (or sit under the dryer for 30 minutes).

Step 4: Detangle with a wide-toothed comb then rinse thoroughly. 

Step 5: Apply coconut oil liberally to each section prior to applying your leave-in conditioner.

               

I'm a huge fan of low-maintenance or "protective" styling. After step 5, I'll apply my finishing products then set my hair in chunky twists. I'll leave the twists in until the following week or I'll take them out and rock a twist-out for a few days. By allowing my hair to air dry in twists, I'm helping lock in the moisture from the products. You'll probably achieve the best results with this method by setting your hair in the protective style of your choice.

I usually pull my twists into a high, messy bun.

I could go into the science behind this method, but I don't want to bore you. Bottom line, this coconut oil sandwich thing works GREAT! 

19 Days of No Shampooing

[Please excuse the gaps and spacing in this post...technical difficulties...]

A couple weeks ago after watching some You Tube videos of women with long, luscious, healthy natural hair and learning of their low-wash regimens, I decided to go back to a low-wash regimen myself. The videos reminded me that I was following a low-wash regimen during my first growth challenge between April and November 2011, which was when I experienced the most consistent growth. While I am content with the overall length of my hair (I think it's back to waist length again since my last trim) I'd like to continue to grow it so it can be fuller at the longest length. 

I began my "new" regimen a few weeks ago when I went 19 days without washing my hair. I'd intended to wash it a few days earlier, but time didn't permit. So how did my hair and scalp hold up? Great! I'm not sure why I was surprised, but my scalp wasn't even itchy by day 19. My hair, however, had a considerable amount of product and lint build-up.

Tip: Want to know how often you should wash your hair? Start by listening to your scalp and hair. An itchy scalp and/or hair with visible product build-up, lint, etc. are indicators that it's time to wash your hair. 

My hair at the beginning of the 19 days. This was the original braid-out from when I'd last washed my hair.

Results of the dry braid-out

On the 19th day I followed my current wash day regimen, which goes as follows:

~Wash with SheaMoisture Moisture Retention Shampoo (this shampoo cleans my hair without stripping it of moisture)
~Condition & Detangle with Everyday Coconut Super Hydrating Conditioner (I chose this conditioner because it doesn't have silicones and mostly has natural ingredients)
~Apply my modified Kimmaytube leave-in conditioner then set hair in braids to rock a braid-out (but this time I set it in fat twists and pulled them up into a high bun)

Results of the dry braid-out

                     

My hair was dirty & ready to be washed
at this point, but I didn't have time so I
bunned it for the last few days.

 







 

After washing...it felt so good to have
clean hair again! If it could've sighed
it would have, lol. 

I also added another component from my old regimen: the ApHogee Keratin 2 Minute Reconstructor (after the shampoo and before the conditioner). I brought this product back into the mix for two reasons: 1) I need protein in my regimen but since I'm 5 months pregnant, managing my usual monthly henna treatments is becoming unrealistic, and 2) I saw great results from this product when I used it during my growth challenge in 2011. Even though I prefer a more natural regimen, this product will have to do until I'm able to work henna back into my routine. I'll probably use the ApHogee product every wash day since it's a nice, light protein that'll continue to strengthen my strands.

I plan to continue with this low-wash regimen for the next few months. I also have some styling ideas coming up for the summer too, so stay tuned to see what new styles I try! ;)

In my next post I'll share the steps I took to care for my hair during the 19 days of no washing.

"Why Isn't My Hair Growing?"

In recent conversations with naturals, I've discovered that little seems to be known about the importance of protein in a hair care regimen. This concerned me because for most naturals protein is a necessary component for healthy hair, especially if the goal is to retain length for the purpose of having longer hair. If your hair doesn't seem to be growing (meaning you aren't retaining length because our hair is always growing) then you may need to add protein to your wash day routine.

Why Protein?

A good, solid regimen provides a balance of protein and moisture. Too much moisture will lead to mushy hair, while too much protein will lead to weak, brittle hair. When I think of protein versus moisture, I think of it this way:

protein = strength & structure

moisture = elasticity

Our hair is made up of over 90% protein. Therefore it is important that our hair is treated with protein products at some point during our regimen - even if it's only once a month. Your hair's protein needs are different from anyone else's, so you have to figure out what's best for you through trial and error. Narrowing down which product(s) are right for your hair is also a process.

Protein Ingredients

Source

If you're wondering how to identify protein in your products, you're not alone. Ingredient lists can be overwhelming. But here are some commonly used proteins in hair products:

- hydrolyzed protein

- keratin

- collagen

- wheat protein

- soy protein

- silk protein

- plant proteins

Protein Categories

There are several options for working protein into your regimen. Which type of protein product you use and how frequently you use it will entirely depend on your hair's needs, your current regimen, your diet, your styling habits (i.e. how often you're using heat), whether you're using chemical processes in your hair...there are a lot of factors to consider. In my mind, protein products fall into three categories:

Protein Conditioners - these are regular conditioners with protein in them; the bottle will often have words like "strengthening" on the front

Light Protein Treatments - these are usually rinsed off a few minutes after application

Intensive Protein Treatments - these are left on the hair and can become hardened if heat is applied; they are then rinsed out and followed by a moisturizing deep conditioner

If you're looking for a protein treatment of any kind, you'll want to make sure at least one protein is within the first five ingredients. Why the first five? These are typically the ingredients that make up most of a product. If your goal is to simply incorporate a protein conditioner into your regimen, then I usually like to look for proteins somewhere in the middle of the ingredient list. This tells me that there is probably an equal balance of protein and moisture ingredients in a product and most likely won't laden my hair with too much protein. But pay attention to your hair! If over time you begin to notice that a protein conditioner is making your hair dry and brittle, then remove it from your regimen until you've restored the moisture-protein balance of your hair.

Protein Precautions

When it comes to protein treatments, one of the most common mistakes is that a moisturizing conditioner/deep conditioner is not used immediately following the treatment. This is the most important point when it comes to using protein products:

always follow protein with moisture!

If you're doing a light protein treatment - such as ApHogee's Two-Minute Reconstructor - then it is a good idea to follow this up with a rinse-out moisturizing conditioner. If you're doing an intensive protein treatment - think ApHogee's Two-Step Protein Treatment - then you MUST follow this with a moisturizing DEEP conditioner that remains on the hair for at least a half hour after your protein treatment has been rinsed out. A good rule of thumb: the length of time you keep the protein treatment in should be the same as or less than the length of time you leave your follow-up moisturizing (deep) conditioner in. 

When moisturizing conditioners aren't used after protein treatments, that is when you'll encounter dry, brittle hair. If this mistake happens repeatedly, your hair will become much more susceptible to breakage and it won't feel soft and manageable. 

What Do You Use?

Since I've gone the more natural route, I use henna to strengthen my hair, which is similar to a protein treatment. Go here for more info on henna. Prior to my natural regimen, I experienced very good results with ApHogee's Two-Minute Reconstructor and used it every wash day for a period of time. I saw decreased shedding and softer, stronger hair. I only recall using ApHogee's Two-Step Protein Treatment once because it was more involved and I didn't care for the smell. Plus when I saw the results I was getting from using their Reconstructor, I realized I didn't need an intense protein treatment.

The body art quality henna I buy from my local Indian store. It costs less than $2 and works great.

I really hope this helps clear up any confusion or concerns regarding protein! Hit me up on Facebook - Forhisglory Natural - and let me know what protein treatment works best for you.

Gel Sealing

I actually used this pic in a recent post where I'd reset my hair in between
wash days. But I did use gel in this pic to set the style, so that's why I'm
including this pic here.

Tonight makes my fourth wash day with the protein conditioner added into my regimen. It's also the fourth wash day that I've used gel to seal. Previously I'd never been too interested in using gel to style because I thought it would leave my hair hard, crunchy and dry. But I researched gel as a sealing "tool" and, even though I didn't find much information to confirm this suspicion, I had this hunch that, when used properly, gel could act as an amazing sealant.


I was right!


The gel adds definition to my braid-outs, and it also appears to enhance the sheen of my hair. And - get this - my hair is SOFT when I take out the braids!! Yeah I know, who woulda thunk it?! LOL!


Here's the order of product application:


1. Apply coconut oil to each dampened section of hair.
2. Apply modified KT leave-in (only 1tsp of each oil + Vitamin E oil)
3. Rub a little bit of gel between my hands and run both hands down the section of hair.


I braid up each section as I go and then criss-cross them around my head to stretch them out (not too tight though) as seen in this post. After taking the braids out, I've been resetting my hair in braids a second time that week and taking them out again to wear a braid-out. I'm aware that by increasing the manipulation in my regimen I'm making my hair more vulnerable to breakage, but I'm comforted by the fact that I'm balancing this change with the protein I've incorporated into my regimen as well. I'm still seeing growth so that's encouraging. I still don't plan to straighten it until after my 5K in May. Maybe that will be my reward to myself for completing the 5K.... ;)


A word of caution: should you choose to use gel to seal, keep in mind that more products = more product build-up, and if left unchecked, product build-up can lead to breakage. Make sure you're washing your hair at least once a week with a moisturizing shampoo or a softened shampoo. 

Softened Shampoo Recipe

Here's the recipe I've been using prior to applying the protein conditioner to my hair. I've modified it each time, but here's the way I made it last time.


1oz sulfate shampoo
1oz grapeseed oil (LOVE this stuff!!)
2oz water


Shake in spray bottle. It's very convenient that there's water in it; that way I don't have to worry about it distributing and lathering evenly since I apply this mixture with the shower water off. Thanks to the grapeseed oil, my hair doesn't feel stripped and straw-like afterwards. Back when I switched over to a sulfate-free shampoo, I swore I would never go back to using sulfate shampoos. But fortunately I follow Shelli on Hairscapades where I learned that you need to clarify your hair prior to doing a protein treatment so that the protein can bond to your hair and do what it's supposed to do. YAY for natural hair friends! :)

Protein Makes Detangling Easier

It's been so long since I've posted, I know! And there's so much to catch you all up on.


For starters, I've been implementing a protein conditioner into my regimen for the past 3 wash days and the results have been phenomenal! And when I say "phenomenal" I am not exaggerating. Reduced shedding, stronger hair, easier detangling and styling. Yes, I'm serious! For the past two wash days - including this past Sunday - I have not used a tool to detangle my hair. This was previously unheard of for me; I never used to believe I could detangle my hair without a comb or detangling tool of some sort. No longer! 


Here's what I've been doing/my new regimen:


1. Finger detangling each section with coconut oil. Since there was gel in my hair (yeah I know, I'll get to that later!) I lightly spritzed each section with water and then ran coconut oil through, gently detangling as I went. When I'm done with a section I twist it.


2. Hop in the shower and soak my head, handling the twists gently so they don't unravel. Then I turn off the water and squirt my softened shampoo at the base of each twist, making sure I'm concentrating the shampoo only on my scalp. (The recipe for my softened shampoo will follow in a later post.)


3. Unravel each twist and gently squeeze the shampoo down my hair. Repeat with each twist then turn the water back on and unravel one twist at a time to rinse all the shampoo out.


4. Apply protein conditioner in like fashion, unraveling one twist at a time and then twisting back up. When shampooing and conditioning, I apply all my products from the front sections to the back sections. When I start rinsing out the protein conditioner, I also start from the front to the back, which allows the product to sit for the allotted time.


5. Rinse out protein conditioner and while keeping my hair under the running water, I gently finger detangle each section as I rinse. My hair detangles SO. MUCH. EASIER.  I don't even need my Tangle Teezer!


6. Follow up with a deep conditioner. Let it sit in my hair under shower caps for a period of time, which is determined by my schedule that day. Rinse and style.


For the past 3 wash days I've been experimenting with gel. I know, *gasp*! I've been using it for additional sealing on top of my modified Kimmaytube leave-in.

Freshly washed and DC'd hair with modified KT leave-in and KCCC
to seal. Loosely braided to preserve curls so I could wear my natural
texture the following day.

After taking the braids out the next day. My hair was, of course, still wet.
It felt strange but fun wearing my natural curl pattern!

Later that day, after air drying and shrinkage. My hair go crunchy
in most parts, but I didn't mind. I was lovin my curls!

Close-up of my dried, shrunken tendrils :) Love 'em!

Protein, Softening Shampoo & Shedding

Just wanted to give a quick update about my recent protein treatment. Last time I did the ApHogee Two-Step Protein Treatment, which is a more intensive - and involved - process. This time I went with their Keratin Two-Minute Reconstructor. I intend to include this in my regimen, at least for the next couple of wash days, as I really saw great results from it (maybe because I used a clarifying shampoo beforehand this time, which allowed the protein to bond to my hair better?). Upon completing the treatment, even before applying my deep conditioner, my hair felt much stronger and softer, which I totally didn't expect after a protein treatment. When I set my hair in bantu knots the following night, I saw very little shedding, which was a first for me. 


A couple of notes on the steps I took...


1) Softened my shampoo 2 oz of a sulfate shampoo, 1 oz of water, 1 oz of grapeseed oil. Applied to my scalp, section by section, with a spray bottle. Squeezed it down each section. I was pleasantly surprised that my hair didn't become dry and overly tangled.


2) Moisturizing Conditioner Followed the treatment with my favorite moisturizing conditioner (even though the directions didn't call for it). Normally I detangle with my conditioner in, but this time I decided to detangle with my leave-in conditioner.

3) Deep Conditioned Added 2 tbsp of blue agave nectar (I've seen better results with this than honey) and 1 or 2 tbsp olive oil to my deep conditioner.

Instead of twisting my hair as usual, I set my hair in about 8 big twists and called it a night. It felt wonderful saving all that time on styling! The next morning I took out the twists and pulled my hair back in a ponytail. By the end of the day, my hair was mostly dry and my ends still looked somewhat defined. YAY for small victories :)

Sorry for the poor lighting, but you get the idea :)

First "Real" Protein Treatment

Today I did my first "real" protein treatment. By "real" I mean I bought it from Sally's. Since starting my growth challenge in April, I've only done homemade protein treatments, with little to no results. This time I did an ApHogee one and could really feel the difference. When I was rinsing the protein portion out and putting in the moisture pack, my hair felt stronger and more resilient. Wonderful!

About 2 weeks prior. My hair had lots of
sheen & moisture but needed more structure
and strength. Protein treatment to the rescue!

So with all the hype about maintaining the proper moisture-protein balance, what made me decide to do a protein treatment? Since straightening my hair in late November I'd started to notice little broken hairs during my wash regimen. I don't believe this was a result of the heat, since I used very low temperatures and a heat protectant. But since I hadn't had a good protein treatment, I believe my hair had become weak in certain areas. Also, now that winter is here I knew this meant that my hair would need extra strengthening against the weather. My weekly deep conditioner treatments were good but as we all know, the key to growing strong, healthy hair is to maintain the proper moisture-protein balance for your hair.

The two-step protein treatment was a bit time consuming but the results were worth it. When I twisted my hair I noticed that my ends were rough in a few areas, but maybe I didn't coat them thoroughly with the moisture pack. Since there wasn't a lot of product in the moisture pack, I ended up applying my favorite moisturizing conditioner afterwards for an extra moisture boost...my hair felt really good after that! :)

If you're noticing breakage and/or your hair feels brittle, you may want to consider a protein treatment. I shied away from them initially because I thought they would make my hair hard. But that was before I learned that you always follow-up protein treatments with a moisturizing conditioner. 

My next protein treatment? I don't know when that's going to be. I'm going to continue listening to my hair and giving it what it needs when it needs it.